Destination: Paris

Two weeks after our arrival in London, we headed to the City of Love – Paris. The actual journey to Paris was part of the experience as we opted to take the Eurostar under the English Channel to get there. We had prepared the kids by watching some YouTube videos on how the chunnel was built so they could really embrace the uniqueness of the experience. This wasn’t even possible when I was born (and that’s not so long ago)!

We loved the casual vibe of the city. It was an obviously slower pace than in London – you can tell the Parisians truly savor taking their time to enjoy life evidenced by the flower shops & patisseries on every corner. A fun surprise was that our old friends from AZ Anthony & Jill were in the city at the same time so we were able to see them for dinner one night! Beforehand, Anthony captured the kids’ attention for a solid hour-long Spanish class which we all enjoyed! Gracias, Anthony!

Accommodations:

We loved our flat in Paris! We found it on AirBnb and this time were very happy with the comfort, the working appliances, and the location regarding access to the metro, groceries, and other amenities.

Sidenote: When looking for somewhere to live for two weeks, Jay and prioritized a few things. First of all, sleeping situation. We decided right away that a sofa bed was not a viable bed for anyone for 2 weeks, let alone 2 days. We wanted to be able to have our living room available without having to put a sofa back together. So when searching we looked for 3+ bedrooms. Not always very easy in these large cities, but it really helped reduce the pool to a more manageable options. Next, access to public transportation. We desire to be in areas that are walkable, but also with easy access to the train to explore outside of our neighborhood. This spot in Paris was between two large metro stations which ended up being very convenient! Finally, we consider access to a market or grocery store. We are not stocking our fridge like we would in the states, so we need to be able to shop daily for our meals.

Activities:

We looked into the Paris version of the pass we used in London, but this time it didn’t feel like a good fit. It had less options and cost more. We figured we’d just pay as we went, but while in Paris we discovered the Paris Museum Pass and decided it was a better match for our visit. It included many museums and monuments while also allowing us to book timed entry for the places we knew would have a queue. Kids under 18 are free for (almost) everything in Paris so we only needed to get the passes for the two of us. A 4-day pass cost us 90€ each – such a steal for what you get!

Arc de Triomphe – This one surprised us. Yes, going to the top of a monument can be new and exciting, but is it really worth the money and time? We ended up spending several hours waiting in line while an elderly person was rescued by helicopter after breaking their hip at the top. The elevator doesn’t go up all the way and the stairs were to narrow to bring them down. It turned our wait into much much longer than normal as they closed the Arc until the man was evacuated, but it also turned our experience into one we will always remember. As people started bailing to try another day, we decided to wait, hoping they’d open it back up soon. I mean, we knew they wouldn’t want to leave that poor person in pain up there longer than absolutely necessary!! While waiting we met a lovely family from Australia, a couple from New Hampshire, and a gentleman from South Korea. Edward and he were communicating via GoogleTranslate which was really cool! Anyway – 2 hours after our timed ticket entry, we made it to the top which had been completely cleared out. It was all for us! And better yet, the Eiffel Tower was brilliantly lit up – we made it up just in time to see it sparkle for the first time.

Eiffel Tower – We chose not to go up the Eiffel Tower as we had amazing views of it from all over Paris. The cost and the crowd were a big factor and we don’t regret skipping it. We thoroughly enjoyed strolling in the Jardin de la Tour Eiffel, getting 360-degree views with much less crowds! Dinner one night at Francette was another way we enjoyed this beautiful landmark.

Louvre – If you read anything about the Louvre while planning a trip, it will most likely be about the crowds and the Mona Lisa. I am not one for large crowds, especially with 4 children in tow, so we hadn’t planned on visiting anything but the outside of the museum. However, with the Museum Pass and some extra time, we decided to reserve a timeslot and give it a shot. Without being too dramatic, it was our least enjoyable stop in the whole two weeks of our stay in Paris. Crowded doesn’t even begin to explain the…situation in the Louvre. The timed entry allowed us to get in without much issue (though we did arrive an hour early to get in line), but once we were in, it was shoulder to shoulder. We used one of the museum’s self-guided tours found on their website to see the masterpieces in 90 minutes. It did in fact take about 90 minutes but let’s be honest it felt like 90 hours with the whining (there are so many marble statues and paintings of dead people – to the kids it ends up getting boring fast), the constant panic if I couldn’t see one of the kids for a minute, and the overwhelming enormity of the place. I just couldn’t get out fast enough. When we were finally ready to leave, we couldn’t even find our way out! It was almost comical as we meandered through following signs only to end up in parking garages or dead end stairwells. If you love art, and I really do love art, I would think the best way to enjoy the Louvre is to go when nobody is there. Which is not really possible. Second best option, go alone!

And yes – we were in Paris when the heist happened. We had been there just 3 days prior. The morning of the heist we were on the metro and there was a notice in the station about there being delays on the 7 line due to police presence. We were about a 10 minute walk away at Sainte-Chapelle and didn’t sense any unusual activity. It wasn’t until later that night when my mom messaged me that we learned about the incident. What a loss – we are glad to hear there is progress being made in the case and hope for a full return of the precious pieces that were taken.

Musee d’Orsay – My absolute favorite stop of our Paris visit. I had wanted to go when I was in Paris in the spring but missed out due to illness (really I think it was jet lag). This time I was determined to go and to be able to enjoy it. Jay was so great in making sure that the kids were taken care of while we all wandered about. Not only is the art here magnificent, but the building itself is so bright and open. If you go, don’t miss the cafe on the top floor behind the clock. Magical!

Musee de L’Orangerie – Just across the Seine from d’Orsay is the Musee de L’Orangerie. This is where Monet’s water lilies are displayed in the most beautiful oval room blanketed with natural light. Being surrounded by these masterpieces is unreal.

Hotel de la Marine – This is another gem that we selected via the Museum Pass. Though we had timed entry, there was no wait and a much less crowded experience than other locations we visited. The audio tour was extremely well done and kept us all entertained at our own pace. Highly recommend, especially for those that have been to Paris before as this is a rather new option in the city having opened for tours in 2021.

Sacre Coeur – Set high on the top of a hill in Montmarte, Sacre Coeur draws the crowds for not only the beauty of the architecture, but also the views of the city that are unmatched. While the line may look long, it goes very fast and is well worth it (free entry). I find that as soon as you walk into Sacre Coeur the world’s volume is turned down so much that you can suddenly hear your own heartbeat. Something about the place makes me emotional enough to cry with the urge to sit there soaking it all in for as long as I can.

Sainte Chappelle – Sitting in the shadow of Notre Dame, Sainte Chappelle is not to be missed. The stained glass windows are a feat of unimaginable artistry and science all bundled up into this rather small (considering) chapel. There are language-specific laminated cards that you can reference as you walk through. You don’t need to set aside a lot of time to thoroughly enjoy this beauty.

Chateau de Versailles – Surprisingly underwhelming. I mean, it’s unimaginably huge and ornate, but just like the Louvre, it’s so incredibly crowded that it’s hard to enjoy like one would prefer. On top of that, the rooms, while stunning, are empty. The walls, ceilings and lighting most definitely impress, but it’s hard to really get a grasp of what living in a palace like Versailles would be like. The gardens are available to enjoy at an additional cost, so we didn’t make it out there, though were very impressed by what we did see. I think if you set an entire day aside for Versailles and had access to the entire estate, you could make it enjoyable. But with a family of 6 squished among thousands of bustling tourists, the vibe just didn’t work for us.

Jardin du Luxembourg – Voted the most beautiful garden in Europe, this space is not to be missed. Even during the off season which is when we went, there was so much to see. We took in the Medicis Fountain, the Aqueduct (we were hoping to be able to sail boats in it but for some reason that activity wasn’t happening the day we visited), and the mini Statue of Liberty. For a small fee, the kids played on the enclosed playground for a good hour or more to burn off some of that pent-up energy from the museum days 🙂

Pere Lachaise Cemetery – Also walking distance from our flat, we checked out this enormous famous resting place. Reminiscent of above ground cemeteries of New Orleans, Pere Lachaise is where Jim Morrison is buried. Wandering around the wooded paths, we enjoyed the beauty of not only nature but the uniqueness of the tombstones as well. Very peaceful place to walk and think.

Jardin des Plantes – Just across the river from our flat, this was a beautiful setting for a stroll. The giant greenhouse was unfortunately closed – we would have loved to explore inside. Adjacent to this park is the zoo (we saw wallabys walking along the fence), the natural history museum, and the palentology museum. I imagine in the spring it’s even more beautiful with more flowers and foliage.

Place des Vosges – Walking distance from our flat, this square is the first square in all of Paris. Located in the Marais district, it is surrounded by buildings and offers a beautiful fountain, benches & shade trees. With very little grass in the city, nevermind a lawn that can be stood on, we took off our shoes, laid in the grass, and soaked up the sun. Perfection.

Paris Saint-Germain Game – This was an activity we were all excited for – it also took up a significant portion of our activity budget for Paris! We had great seats at the front of a balcony in the rowdy (rowdiest?) section of the stadium. We got to unroll the giant flag that covered the entire section below us and then held the flag that was covering the entire section behind/above us. We got to be right up there next to the hype guy with the drums and the megaphone/microphone that never. stopped. going. The energy was relentless in the best of ways. If you are soccer fans, attending any game in Europe is a must. There is nothing like it!

Galeries Lafayette – Beautiful mall with ornate ceiling and high-end brands.

La Samaritaine – Also a beautiful mall with ornate interior and high-end brands

Square Trousseau – Our go-to park. Though it was free of grass like most of Paris play areas, it had a decent sized play structure and plenty of benches for watching. Surrounded by cafes and shops to keep you occupied!

Opera National de Paris – Harriet and I enjoyed a ballet here. While it is not the Palais Garnier, we were told that those that enjoy the architecture go there, those that enjoy the performance go to Opera National. Regardless, it was beautiful inside and we loved our experience!

Merci – Fun shop to browse clothing, gifts and homegoods.

Pharmacies – Don’t miss the pharmacies in Paris! Found on every street, they are filled with reasonably priced skincare that is hard to find back in the states. Google will help you find plenty of blogs with recommendations for products you might like. I am already writing a list for what I’ll need Jay to grab on his next layover!

BONUS ACTIVITY: Flash Invaders is a fun way to open your eyes to nooks and crannies in the city that might go overlooked, and it’s completely free. This was a game changer for us in getting some of the kids engaged while walking around. You simply download the app created by artist Invader, and take photos as you see the mosaics he created around the city for points. The work of Invader is spreading around the world, so next time you travel check the app to see if you can go hunting!

Dining:

La Creperie Francaise – Crepes on Ile St. Louis. Friendly & delicious.

Francette – On the Seine under the Eiffel Tower. Tapas type menu. Make sure to make reservations!

Cafe Quai 33 – We swung into this cafe down the street with our friends Anthony and Jill. French onion soup & croque monsieur didn’t disappoint!

Magic Carpet Cafe – cute cafe within walking distance from our flat. I enjoyed going here a few times. They played great music!

Boulangeries – try them all!

Berthillon – The best ice cream! Make sure to enjoy in their tea room where you have access to a larger menu and are able to fully enjoy the setting.

Early Bird – Coffee roaster in the market near our flat. Fabulous Irish owner with lots of stories. Make sure to get the breakfast sandwich with the chile jam.

Les Petits Pains Ronds – boulangerie we loved with very friendly staff.

Boulangerie MieMie – Our first bakery visit in the city, we loved their croissants and cinnamon rolls.

The Perks:

Paris is an art-lovers dream. The museums we saw were only the tip of the iceberg!

Parisians live a slower-paced lifestyle, enjoying the finer things that life has to offer.

You will never run out of things to do in Paris. There is so much to see!

Everyone smells good! The perfumes are beautiful and it made me want to be a perfume person. I’m not one but I wanted to get them all.

The Not-So Perks:

The lack of greenery. We really missed the parks that we loved so much in London. It was extremely difficult to find anywhere that allowed kicking a soccer ball around. For a soccer loving country, we couldn’t figure out where people actually played for fun…

Paris loved their sirens. It felt like there were sirens going off all. the. time. It was comical really, not in an insensitive way, but it was over the top! And it didn’t matter which neighborhood we were in, they were blaring!

Wrap It Up, Amie

Once again, I went overboard. Just when I thought I was finished, I’d remember something really fun or cool to add. Needless to say, we loved Paris. If you have any chance to visit this amazing city, take it! It’s no wonder that it’s one of the most coveted travel destinations in the world – you will never be bored – just inspired.

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