Destination: Barcelona

We headed to Barcelona via a 6-hour train ride from Paris. We loved the ease of train travel compared to dealing with the airport. The train station (Paris Lyon) was easy to navigate and very clean, with plenty of options for food, shopping, and people watching! We loaded up on croissants, jambon beurre sandwiches, and made our last pharmacy pit-stop before we headed out. The train was comfortable and we enjoyed the French countryside as we meandered toward the coast and south. We arrived in Barcelona late – around 9:30pm – and had no problem getting a large taxi (van) to our AirBnb.

We noticed that Barcelona takes a huge amount of pride in their city. The city was very clean with people leaf blowing and power washing the sidewalks every day. Their trash removal is impressive – a national system that uses large color coded bins along the streets for residents to separate into categories. This eliminates the need for unsightly overflowing garbage bins everywhere. And the most epic cleanliness habit we saw in the city: people walk their dogs with squirt bottles of water (picture a clear ketchup/mustard bottle from a fast food restaurant). When the dog relieves themselves, the person squirts the spot with water. I kid you not.

Speaking of pride, we did feel a bit of an off-putting “welcome” as we noticed “Tourists Go Home” grafitti here and there. We had heard about this prior to visiting so that might have put us on edge a bit. I’m sure part of it was that we were staying in a residential area of the city where the impact was felt more. Regardless, it was not a constant thing but we definitely felt like we were noticed and judged (?) more than we have felt anywhere else. I completely understand why locals are upset as we’ve had similar consequences due to AirBnbs and tourism in our lovely state of Vermont, especially after 2020.

Barcelona Accommodations:

This flat had it’s ups and downs. We absolutely loved the neighborhood. Gracia is extremely residential with very narrow one-way streets, little traffic if any at all, and is bustling with families. Every couple blocks opens up to a square which nearly always included a small market, a cafe, a bakery and a gelato shop. People casually walk in the middle of the streets in Gracia because it is that chill. Every once in a while you scoot over to the sidewalk to let a scooter get by. On the otherhand, at night is when all the city maintenance happens. You hear the garbage collectors and the people doing whatever else they do at midnight instead of 7am like we are used to in the states. It really surprised us but having been in Spain for a few weeks I can tell you that it is just how they do things here. The mornings are quiet and at night everyone is out and about.

The flat had it’s quirks – the tile floor in the living room felt…bouncy which was strange. Every time you took a step all the furniture wobbled. The kitchen didn’t have oven mitts, bowls, or more than maybe 4 spoons. However the lovely balcon (narrow balcony overlooking the street), the clotheslines off the back by the laundry room, and the festive live music playing in the square behind us were such a treat!

Barcelona Activities:

Sagrada Familia – Undisputedly the main attraction in Barcelona, the Basilica de la Sagrada Familia is a sight to be seen. The masterpiece of architect Antoni Gaudi, Sagrada’s cornerstone was laid over 140 years ago and has yet to be finished. The main structure is expected to be completed next year, while the remaining finishing touches should be completed by 2035. We were barely able to book tickets a couple weeks in advance, so if you are going to Barcelona – book Sagrada first! The ticket includes an audio tour which walks you through the Nativity and Passion facades, the breathtaking inside, the symbolism and purpose behind some of the architectural design, and more. If you can go at golden hour when the sun is just right, you will be treated with an even more impressive light show through the stained glass.

Gaudi 4D – We took the advice of someone online to do this before Park Guell if you have children in tow. While I wasn’t impressed with the 4D aspect of it (our seats did move and I guess there was some air and maybe water?), I liked how it explained the artist and his inspiration without the need for words – by using art and music. It’s quite inexpensive and a great way to create some connection with the artist before going to the park (it’s also conveniently located across the street). It offers a pretty nice gift shop free of chintzy junk found at many landmarks which was fun to browse while we waited for our timeslot.

Park Guell – We were unsure of how the kids would enjoy this stop, and it was a bit pricey for a park entrance, but I had read it’s not to be missed so we went for it. I’m so glad we did. After watching the aformentioned Gaudi 4D, the kids understood the architect’s influence for the park’s design. We brought ourselves a picnic lunch and after entering found a quiet spot to enjoy it. The app gave us a suggested route to take (based on entry point as there are several) to make the most of our time there. This worked out very well. Not only was it a true masterpiece in every direction, but set atop a hill in the northern part of the city, it offered amazing views in nearly all directions. If you want to visit Park Guell, be sure to book your tickets in advance as they always sell out.

Casa Vicens – This was the second summer home of a local stockbroker named Manuel Vicens and Gaudi’s first major project. Gaudi’s design is evident in every detail – from the ceilings to the windows to the doors, you could get lost in this gem. It was just down the road from our flat, so I snuck out one night solo to go and enjoyed the self-led tour via the app on my phone. Highly recommend!

Casa Padellas (Barcelona History Museum MUHBA) – I stumbled upon a post where someone commented on how amazing this museum was and how she was surprised it wasn’t more popular. So on a day when it was supposed to rain (it didn’t) and Jay was working, we headed over to check it out. The kids were skeptical – you know – the whole museum means paintings of dead people and sculptures with missing heads thing. Anyway, after fueling up on croissants, we headed in. We lucked out because the internet was down so they let us in for free. Score! Making our way around the exhibits on the upper floor, we learned about the city’s history and heritage. But the real star of the show was under the building. In the floor belowground, we were able to walk among the crumbling walls of old Roman Barcelona, dating to the 1st century BC. The city was called Barcino and was complete with a winery, a factory dedicated to salting fish, and a episcopal complex including a baptismal font. We all were totally captured by the existence of such a relic of a space that continued on and on underground. One of our top experiences in the city – up there with Sagrada, but for different reasons.

Gothic Quarter – The oldest part of Barcelona -the Gothic Quarter is made up of narrow streets lined with shops, cafes and churrerias (churros!). It gives a cozy medieval vibe while seamlessly showcasing the city’s blend of both old and new. The narrow streets and tall buildings give an eerie sense of shadows and light that just added to my appreciation of it all. Tip: Make sure you have time and/or access to Google Maps – it’s easy to get lost among those winding streets which isn’t good if you are in a rush to be somewhere!

Gran Teatre del Liceu – The girls and I went to see Giselle at the opera house. We got there early in order to enjoy the architecture and a Fresca before the performance. We later learned (during a ghost tour!) that this building is thought to be cursed as it has burned down three times! If you are into theatre or dance, the Liceu is a stunning stage. And I’ll just put this out there: even if you don’t consider yourself into theatre or dance, maybe use a trip to a big city to try it out. Exploring the arts in a variety of facets really gives a deeper connection to the city around you.

Museo de la Ciencia CosmoCaixa – This science museum is not to be missed! Filled with interesting, hands-on exhibits, we could have easily spent the entire day here. The Flooded Forest was everyone’s favorite part with the highlight being that we got to see a real live cabybara!! It was the cutest and we were just giddy to watch it. Entry is free for under 16 so we spent a few hours there for the cost of my 8€ ticket!

Bosc Urba – I chose to do this activity to celebrate my birthday. As soon as I saw it, I knew it would be a hit with everyone, and that was my mission in making it a good day. I wanted the whining at a minimum and the fun to be to the max! We surprised the kids and they told me that I chose the best gift ever 🙂 We did the family circuit and afterwards the kids did 30 minutes of high altitude jumping.

Picasso Museum – After our adventures at Bosc Urba and Lebanese food for lunch, I headed solo (!) to the Picasso Museum. I loved it here. It is set up in sequence from his early years on, so you get a great perspective on how his technique developed and how the influences in his life made it onto the canvas. I loved being able to take my time in each room and be able to fully appreciate this iconic artist. It felt like a great way to spend my birthday, especially since I share it with the artist himself!

Ghost Tour – Halloween is very new to Spain, and therefore we weren’t sure how to celebrate it with the kids. We made sure to grab yummy Halloween treats that day, but I also thought going on a ghost tour would be fun! Edward & Harriet took me up on the offer while Fiona & George hung out with Jay. This tour in the Gothic Quarter was packed with interesting information about not only some possibly haunted/cursed buildings, but also the history of Spain and Barcelona itself. Don’t minimize the value of a tour that might sound quirky – these guides are full of fun facts that keep little (and big) minds entertained and engaged.

Magic Fountain of Montjuic – A venture out across the city on an evening when the kids were hoping to stay in and watch a movie. The tradeoff was well worth it. The fountain was built in 1929 for the International Expo as a “daring and costly” centerpiece of the city’s main drive. It uses groundwater in an effort to reduce water consumption in the city’s dry, semi-arid climate. It had been closed for several years for renovations (and due to the drought) and recently reopened this fall. We were glad to have gotten there early as the crowds were unimaginable to see this aquatic light show. The backdrop of the National Palace with radiating lights added to the drama. What the kids expected to be just a beautiful fountain turned out to be an awe-inspiring experience. Totally worth it (free, but crowds), but make sure you get there early to enjoy from a comfortable spot.

Parc de la Ciutadella – The location of the city’s Arc de Triomf, this park offers wandering paths, beautiful greenery, and cozy playgrounds tucked into shade trees. It’s design was inspired by Luxemburg Gardens in Paris – one of our favorite places to explore while visiting that city. The highlight was renting rowboats on the pond – Edward did a great job steering us around to enjoy the ducks & turtles.

Barceloneta Beach – We picked a record-setting windy day to visit the beach. The kids wore their swimsuits, we packed towels, and grabbed a picnic along the way. When I say along the way – keep in mind it was several hours of walking as we meandered the streets of Barcelona. We had just arrived in the city and wanted to see it all! The only thing we had going for us was that the walk was mostly downhill and that places like the Lego Store and the Barca team store were along the way. The harbor next to the beach was impressive – lined with massive yachts from all over the world. You couldn’t help but wonder who the boats (ships?) belonged to or who was onboard. The beach itself was clean, wide, and offered a beautiful view of the Mediterranean Sea. All of the kids made it in the water which was frigid – the massive waves were what kept them in. The smiles said it all, and we even walked back up the hill instead of taking the metro home.

Barcelona Dining & Shopping:

CLOUD Gelato – just around the corner from our flat, CLOUD was the kids’ favorite spot to wander to after dinner.

Baluard Barceloneta Bakery – white chocolate croissant….delicious. A large variety of breads and sweets.

La Pausa Cafe – I had a lovely visit with Edward here one morning. The tomato toast and the potato tortilla were so so good and Edward loved his gigantic chocolate croissant.

La Pallaresa – The best churros & chocolate in Barcelona! Plenty of seating for our large family – we loved the service, the location (Gothic Quarter), and most importantly, the churros! They were perfectly crispy on the outside and chewy inside. We ordered a serving each of three different chocolates to dip and decided the original was our favorite.

Be Chocolat – chocolate treats in the Gothic Quarter

Granja & Xocolateria La Nena – churros and chocolate, games for the kids, and plenty of seating.

Design Place – a lovely shop with a mission we loved: to support local and in-house artists in making a souvenir shop that highlights the best about Barcelona without the chintzy souvenirs most shops offer. From totes to prints, paper to jewelry, the girls and I had a fun time browsing and buying.

El Corte Ingles – large department store where you can find everything! We got our picnic essentials here one day and enjoyed the variety of not only food (grocery & prepared) but clothing and clean bathrooms too.

The Perks:

Gracia – Extremely walkable, quaint, and family friendly neighborhood in walking distance of most of Barcelona including Parc Guell, Sagrada Familia, and Casa Vicens.

Designed for the people – You will always be able to find a bench, a small playground, or a cluster of trees for shade in Barcelona. Every few blocks opens up to a square while some of the major roads are sandwiched around a pedestrian area.

Art/Architecture – Barcelona is not boring. Enjoy unique and interesting architecture everywhere you look. The shape of the city blocks is interesting. The sidewalk tiles are beautiful. You get the idea.

The Not-So Perks:

Tourists Go Home lingered in the back of our heads during our stay in Barcelona. Not enough to hugely impact our time there, but we felt it nonetheless.

Just like Paris, we had a hard time finding grass to play on. Parks consist of play structures and benches. The parks that do have grass have very small areas not suited to playing soccer and running around which is the big thing we missed, especially after our love of parks in London!

Wrap It Up, Amie

Barcelona has a lot to offer – from beaches to museums, delicious food, to amazing architecture. While we wouldn’t pick Barcelona as our favorite city of the trip, we are so glad we got to go and explore it and would certainly go back again. Have you been to Barcelona? What did you enjoy most?

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