Destination: Madrid

Almost immediately after arriving in Madrid, we all felt like it was our place. I’m not sure exactly how to explain it, but I distinctly remember telling Jay that it felt different, and that I could just tell that it was different from the vibe we got in Barcelona. It might have been the large legs of pork hanging in every window. That surely didn’t hurt.

Accommodations:

Our AirBnb in Madrid was wonderful! Located within walking distance to many of the city’s main attractions including Retiro Park, but also on a quiet street with nearly no traffic. Now that I bring it up – it was a curious experience in the city – while there were cars on the main streets, the overall city felt rather car-less. Just like Barcelona, public transportation was king and we never once wished we had a vehicle. Ok, back to the flat. It was three bedroom with plenty of space for all of us, and closets that allowed us to completely unpack and feel at home. The living room was small but comfortable, and the dining table comfortably accommodated us all. The kitchen was new and very clean. As with all kitchens we’d experienced on this trip, while it was labeled as “fully stocked” it was lacking basics like potholders, measuring instruments, etc. Which could mean a few things – that Europeans don’t use potholders and/or that most people don’t cook or bake while on their vacations. Either way, we were used to adjusting and enjoyed many meals there.

One of my favorite things that we got in the habit of here in Madrid was stopping by the meat market many times to get meat for dinner that night. We got to know the butcher and he prepared it just right for what we were making that night. We even saw him outside of the shop and he recognized us and waved! It felt cool to be part of the neighborhood, even though it was only a couple of weeks. After we got our protein, we’d stop at the fruit/veggie stand and restock our stash for the next 24 hours, and then stop at the market and grab anything else we needed. All of this was just across the street from each other and around the corner from our flat. City life at it’s finest.

Activities:

El Retiro Park – Finally! Grass!! And lots of it! Madrid did not disappoint in delivering a park we really enjoyed. Retiro is grander than any park we’ve visited – with beautiful crisscrossing pathways, plenty of shade, trees, and little curiosities tucked in between. The infamous Crystal Palace was under construction so we didn’t get to see it and all it’s beauty as it was covered with scaffolding but we enjoyed the “great pond”, beautiful Plaza Parterre, and the bustling of people enjoying the space. We loved learning about the 627-year old olive tree (dating back to 1396) that was recently saved from a nearby development and replanted in the park.

Museo del Prado – Jay and I booked a guided tour and enjoyed being led around this giant museum, learning about the history of the building and the artwork living inside it. Our experience here was the complete opposite of the Louvre. The majority of the collection is comprised of pieces by Spanish artists, such as Velazquez, Goya and El Greco. I was eager to see Las Meninas – a piece that I had studied back in college – and it did not disappoint. I could have sat there all day appreciating every corner of it. Unfortunately, no photography is allowed in the Prado, but this turned into a huge plus as it allowed us to fully listen and appreciate the beauty that surrounded us.

Reina Sofia Museum – Part of Madrid’s “Art Triangle” of museums, the Reina Sofia features 20th Century art including the works of Pablo Picasso and Salvador Dali. Our well-informed tour guide excitedly told us about the history of the museum (it was originally the First General Hospital in Madrid), the significance of modern art and how it was redefined – from traditional themes of religion and the elite in the pre-modern era to representation of real life experience, skepticism, irony, and everyday objects.

Atletico Madrid Game – Hey this is Edward. George, Dad, and I went to the game, here is a quick recap. Atletico Madrid faced Union Saint-Gilloise, the first half was two-nil Atletico until the away team scored in the 80th minute, after the 85th minute we decided to head back to the apartment early to cut off the crowd (we learned from our past game at PSG that standing in a train filled to the brim with people isn’t very fun). After we headed to the train station that was across the parking lot we realized that it was only letting people out and not in, then we headed to the train station that is under the stadium and as we were heading back we heard a roar from inside the stadium, we looked at ESPN and we figured out that Atletico Madrid scored another to make the score 3-1. As we got onto the train we realized that it was the wrong one a second too late so we went to the wrong stop. After getting off and walking around to find a bus stop or another train station we finally decided that getting an Uber was just easier. After waiting around 30 minutes we finally found an Uber and it took another 20 minutes to get back home. The game was a great experience but I thought that the PSG game was a better experience overall being much more energetic and more lively fans.

Bernabeu (Real Madrid) Stadium Tour – George’s take: “We had fun. It was just me, Edward and dad. We saw all of the trophies. It was really exciting to see the Champion’s League trophy. I think it was a bit better than the London stadiums we visited because Real Madrid stadium was much cooler. I liked that it’s a whole circle and wavy. When I grow up, I want to play for Real Madrid and hopefully soon I can see a game there.”

Madrid by Night Segway Tour – While the boys went to a futbol game, the girls and I decided to try something new. We booked a last minute nighttime segway tour around the area to familiarize ourselves with the city and more importantly to play on segways! We were all a little nervous having never been on one before but our guide was great and very patient (mainly with me who had the harder time figuring it out). We were the only ones on the tour so we got lots of attention 🙂 Since there were two futbol games that night, the roads were even less busy than usual, so we felt safe as ever zooming around. We saw the palace all lit up with police as the king was arriving. While we watched from atop a hill, our guide told us about the history of the palace and the cathedral next door. He explained that as soon as the king arrived in the palace the flag would be raised. We didn’t wait around for that but it was quite the show watching all of the guards at work. We enjoyed all of his stories and legends he shared with us and made it home in time to snuggle on the couch with ice cream while the boys were still at the game.

Park near the Palace (near Monumento a Cervantes) – The kids’ favorite playground, I can’t count how many days we ended up here. There is a play tower with slides and bridges, but also so many different swings – the regular kind, but also tire swings and basket-type ones too. Grand Via, the main drag in Madrid offering shopping, restaurants, and beautiful architecture basically ends at this park, so after a big day of shopping and eating, it’s a perfect spot to rest and rejuvinate while the kids play.

Toboganes de Madrid Rio – Fun for kids of all ages, this park features eight metal slides of all shapes and sizes. Some are super steep & tubular while others are wide & slow. We all had a great time at this unique spot!

Plaze de Olavide – If you have kids that like playgrounds, this is a great stop. Not only are there two sides with some unique play pieces that we’ve never seen before, but it’s surrounded by cafes where you can enjoy a glass of vermout or cerveza while you watch. The fountain adds to the ambiance of this perfect spot.

Puerta del Sol – Public square with the 0km marker where all distances in Spain are measured from. It’s also the location of the iconic statue of the Bear and Strawberry Tree, shopping, a metro station and more.

Plaza Mayor – Also a public square, but with a very different vibe. Plaza Mayor is a rectangular shape and surrounded by balconied residential buildings on 4 sides with a statue of Philip III in the center. The square is accessed by 9 arched entrances that feel very fairytale like vibe.

Duck Church – When I heard about Madrid’s wacky and unusual duck church and saw it was literally 2 blocks from our flat, I knew we had to check it out. We attended a “mass” and while we didn’t understand most of what was said as it was nearly all in Spanish, what we did get out of it is that we all must treat each other and the world better, don’t take yourself too seriously, and to have fun. We can get behind that. The experience was just so unusual and foreign to us all that the discomfort and hilarity of it will forever be etched in our minds. For donation only, it’s a Madrid must.

Dining & Shopping

We admittedly had a much more casual visit to Madrid than the other cities – possibly because we were getting tired of sightseeing, but also could be influenced by the more casual, laid-back vibe Madrid offers. We stopped in many small cafes and shops that all had their appeal but not worthy of writing about each one. I’ve picked a few noteworthy spots in case you need a place to start. Really, the fun of a city is exploring on your own to see what you can find.

Botin – recognized by the Guinness Book of World Records as the oldest continually operating restaurant in the world. Here we enjoyed their specialty – suckling pig as well as roast lamb, both of which are cooked in the original 1725 wood-fired oven. The sangria was delicious as well. Reservations are a must and seating is tight, but it was a memorable meal for all of us.

Mercado de San Miguel – Beautiful covered market filled with anything your belly craves – from sweets to seafood, pastries to coffee, and everything in between.

Nomade Cafe – at the end of our block. Jay and I had a delicious breakfast and cappuccino at this popular spot.

Bresca – a cozy spot where Jay and I enjoyed a beverage and a dessert. It was quiet at 7pm but by 9 it was bustling!

Brown Bear Bakery – Edward and I went here so he could do a math test with less home distractions and enjoyed the atmosphere and baked treats.

Humana Vintage – Jay, Fiona and I popped in here and had fun. I scored a sweet lambskin coat and we got George a vintage Real Madrid jersey and scarf. Everywhere we’ve traveled on this trip so far has had amazing vintage shopping, though I found that this store had the most reasonable prices yet.

Primark – The Gran Via is one of the largest Primark locations in the world, we were excited to check it out while not really knowing what to expect. Let’s just say it’s totally worth going in for the beautiful building with a giant 5-floor atrium – similar to the stunning malls in Paris, however after that, it was pretty disappointing. Very fast fashion, nothing felt unique or special. We walked out empty handed. It would be a great stop for a bathroom break or to get a last minute item you need like a raincoat or boots.

Churros: Chocolateria San Gines and Churreria Chocolateria 1902 were the standouts, but let’s be honest – it’s hard to have a bad churro in Spain. We found ourselves in a churreria nearly every day. 10/10 highly recommend.

Spanish Vermouth – Jay and I enjoyed sampling this traditional drink at several locations around the city. Traditionally served with a twist of orange and a bowl of olives, it is the perfect mid-day libation. While we are on the subject, the olives in Spain are like no other. Not as salty, more meaty, and the perfect barside snack.

The Pros

Madrid felt welcoming and homey right from the start. Practicing our Spanish with shopkeepers felt easy and they would help us along with joy.

We all felt safe walking around at all hours, and navigating was very easy.

Maple syrup was on sale – 50% off?! Something that would never happen in the states, nevermind Vermont! We took full advantage!

The Not-So Pros

I’m honestly having a hard time thinking of things we didn’t like in Madrid. I even asked the kids and they were stumped. We will update this post if we think of anything to add here.

Wrap It Up, Amie

It’s easy to wrap this city up because it was a true favorite. We loved the people, the sights, the history, and the art. We can’t wait to make our way back in the near future and hope that it’s now on your list to visit someday if you haven’t already.

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